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街知巷聞﹕站在柴灣道 細味日常故事

街知巷聞﹕站在柴灣道 細味日常故事-A+A明報 – 2011年12月11日星期日上午5:54寄給朋友列印【明報專訊】明報大廈位於柴灣,我卻極少注意這個地區。上班下班匆匆而過,不是老舊公屋就是工廠大廈。翻開柴灣的歷史,過往數十年來,追趕着柴灣發展的都是居住和就業需求,「里程碑」不外乎幾幾年建了XX邨、幾幾年又拆了XX邨再重建,某年開始引進工業,某年填海某年建成某道路……一切都順着城市整體的步伐來,既不領先亦不對抗。主題除了生存與工作,就是疾病(醫院)與死亡(墳場),最基本不過。然而,柴灣的地理位置其實很美;三面環山的谷地,水源豐富,盛產木材。位於港島東盡頭,從前卻稱為「西灣」。原來在東區聚居的客家人常到此砍柴,客家話中的「柴」字近似粵音「西」字,故被誤讀多年,也曾出現「Sai Wan」的英文舊稱。後來柴灣終於獲正名,但東邊的「小柴灣」卻繼續被叫做「小西灣」,沿用至今。長命斜見證柴灣變遷香港開埠以前,柴灣只有30名客家村民,1891年增加至208人,一直種田打魚為生。殖民政府在港島區的規劃以中環、灣仔為發展中心,電車只鋪到筲箕灣,以鯉魚門為軍事門戶,設置軍營和炮台(成為今日的香港海防博物館);鯉魚門以東的柴灣,無險可守,無車路可達,荒蕪得吸引了香港童軍總會於1925年建立營地,老街坊稱該小山坡為「童軍山」,位置就在今日港鐵站旁的柴灣公園。1950年代以前,柴灣連巴士也不到。對外的唯一路徑,是柏架山與柴灣坳的夾縫間、有長命斜之稱的柴灣道。但當時的柴灣道甚為狹窄,唯一一條來往灣仔的8號巴士線,只能駛至現時東區醫院洗衣房的位置,居民再自行步入柴灣。50年代開始,內地難民大量湧港,市區居住空間不足,部分貧苦家庭選擇落戶於柴灣這邊陲之地。大片木屋、寮屋,由山腰一直伸延至海邊。1968年,柴灣人口增至8萬人。小城小事 一切來得踏實柏架山下的故事,不像對岸的獅子山那樣激動人心。1959年木屋區被清拆改建成27幢徙置大廈,70年代開始徒置區又陸續改建成公共屋邨,同時興建工廠大廈提供就業機會、擴闊道路改善交通,直至80年代地鐵通車、東區走廊啟用,柴灣居民仍是自成一隅地默默生活着,一直沒發生什麼轟烈的大災難或大事件。日常生活裏每遇到柴灣人,聽他們談起「我細個在柴灣大的……」,語氣並不特別自豪,卻總是愉快,底子裏是踏實的、關於家的回憶。a. 羅屋民俗館柴灣早期的木屋平房都已清拆,唯一保留下來的是這家有200年歷史的村屋,已被評為法定古蹟。客家人習慣以姓氏來命名族屋群,此屋的戶主姓羅,故名羅屋,是早年柴灣六條客家村落(羅屋、成屋、藍屋、陸屋、西村和大坪村)之一。羅屋是傳統「三間兩廊」的客家村屋格局,左右對稱,屋內陳設有舊式木製家俱器物,展示昔日生活習俗。b. 柴灣工廠邨大廈1959年落成,與柴灣邨徙置區同期建設,以安置原本在木屋平房區內經營的山寨廠,是柴灣第一幢工廠大廈,也是香港現存最後一幢徙置工廠大廈,但已定於明年9月清拆,現時只餘地下數家五金、水電裝修公司仍在經營。經典的H形建築,樓高5層,沒有升降機,樓層之間建有斜路方便車仔推貨上落。永和實業初進柴灣時,亦曾租用這廠廈的地下和四樓單位。往後70年代柴灣工業區發展,都以此處為中心,向祥利街、利眾街一帶延伸開去。而現時工廠邨大廈對面的港鐵站位置,原是巴士總站,熟食小販聚集,80年代工業全盛時期,工人深夜加班、販商通宵擺檔,是柴灣最熱鬧的地方。c. 合興粥麵吉勝街10號熟食市場位於工廈之間的後巷牌檔,50年前在遠離工廠區的舊柴灣邨開業,25年前搬至現址,太子爺一直追隨至今。合興的車仔撈麵遠近馳名,一些區外食客都專程光顧,餸菜款式雖比較少,最基本的蘿蔔、魷魚、豬皮、豬大腸、豬紅、雞翼尖、冬菇等都齊備,每款都非常入味。難怪日日排長龍,兩個阿姐一位大叔,還是做到無停手。「這裏雖然看起來舊,東西卻很企理,每日收檔也都執乾淨地方。」談起牌檔,林健鋒不無感慨,光顧開的區內老店都是些因應環境做落的小生意,一直到現在都做得不錯,希望政府不要規管過嚴,消滅了這種老店特色。d. 東區醫院洗衣房柴灣最早的木屋區,由現時東區醫院的山頭開始。而1950年代以前唯一一條8號巴士線,就以這洗衣房位置為終點站。1958至1961年間,政府為應付往後的工業發展,大規模擴闊筲箕灣道至柴灣道迴旋處路段,成為現時五線雙程行車的重要幹道。e. 合時食堂走在柴灣工廠區的街道上,幾乎不見商店和餐廳,一來這裏的店舖確實較少,就算有都躲藏在工廈內或後巷之間。合時食堂的入口甚不起眼,1969年經營至今,出品的蒸飯套餐由當年6元賣至現在的26元,不變的是那家常味道。據說,街坊當年喊黃姑娘做「肥妹」,現在大家都長大了,太子爺近年多數請阿姐幫忙買外賣,甚少親臨到訪,這天與黃姑娘再見面,兩人都很高興地來一張合照。文 林茵圖 李紹昌編輯 蔡曉彤

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